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On 28 June 1764, during the family’s stay in London, Leopold Mozart wrote to Johann Lorenz Hagenauer: ‘. . . in due course I shall – God willing – show you some copper engravings not only of these places but of many other things both in Paris and London. You can then have a fuller explanation of them. I’ve left a number of copper engravings in Paris that are worth 2 louis d’or.’
Leopold Mozart’s engravings from Paris are apparently lost, but the engravings from London survive, possibly incompletely, in the library of the Salzburg Museum. The original library catalogue card reads: ‘Copper engravings owned by the Mozarts’; a further annotation, in a different hand, reads: ‘A number of copper engravings that father Leopold Mozart purchased during his artistic tour in London, Brussels, Paris and Naples in 1763, as well as an English prayer book purchased in London.’1 The Brussels, Paris and Rome engravings apparently do not survive, nor does the small prayer book (possibly an edition of The Book of Common Prayer). Almost certainly, many, if not all, of these engravings derive from the estate of Mozart’s sister Nannerl, which included ’28 Italian prospects with glass and frames’, 2 Dutch pieces, 12 landscapes, 2 landscapes showing the Tower and Calais, 2 ditto Italian, 3 prospects of the city of London.’2
The following images reproduce the Mozarts’ collection of London engravings as they survive at the Salzburg Museum, together with explanatory commentary. The commentary also includes, when mentioned, passages from John King, Der Getreue Englische Wegweiser, Oder: Gründliche Anweisung zur Englischen Sprache für die Deutschen / The True English Guide for Germans (seventh edition: Leipzig and London, 1762), a bilingual language tutor and travel guide that was apparently consulted by Leopold: several of his letters include facts and figures taken directly from King. The book concludes with a section, The Magnificence and Splendour of London, in the Year 1757. Some of the descriptions of London in Leopold’s letters mirror King’s imagery. In describing the Thames River, for instance, Leopold writes: ‘Anyone standing on London Bridge and observing the mass of ships that are always lying at anchor in the Thames would think they were looking at a dense forest, so astonishing is the number of their masts.’ King, for his part, has: The vast Traffick and prodigious Commerce where by this City flourishes, may be guessed at . . . by the infinite Number of Ships, which, by their Masts, resemble a Forest, as they lie along the River Thames.’
The North Prospect of London taken from the Bowling Green at Islington
A popular leisure destination for Londoners in the eighteenth century, the borough of Islington (now EC1) boasted a large number of public houses and tea gardens, many of which offered archery ranges, skittle alleys and bowling greens. These included the White Conduit House, the High Barn Tavern (which had a bowling green from c1740), the Devil’s House in Tollington Lane; the Mother Red Cap, the Horse and Groom and the Crown on Upper Holloway, and the Castle Inn on Colebrooke Row. The Mozarts’ engraving of north London was based on a work by the publisher and printmaker Thomas Bowles (c1695-1767).
See A History of the County of Middlesex: Volume 8, Islington and Stoke Newington Parishes [right click to open in a new window]
A View of the New Bridge at Westminster
Construction on Westminster Bridge, designed to provide access across the Thames between Putney Bridge and London Bridge, began in 1737; it opened in November 1770. According to King, The True English Guide for Germans, 463-464:
Over this River are two great Bridges built of Stone: One is called London-Bridge which communicates with the Borough of Southwark, and which, for admirable Workmanship, for Vastness of Foundation, for all Dimensions, and for solid Houses and rich Shops built thereon, has been above 5oo Years very famous. The other is the new Westminster-Bridge near Whitehall, which communicates with Lambeth. It was finished in the Year 1750, and cost above 389500 l. Sterl. This Bridge is allowed to be one of the finest in the World: For it is built in a neat and elegant Taste, and with such Simplicity and Grandeur, that whether viewed from the Water, or by the Passenger who walks over it, it fills the Mind with an agreeable Surprize. The Semioctangular Towers which form the Recesses of the Footway, the Manner of placing the Lamps, and the Height of the Balustrade, are at once the most beautiful, and in every other Respect, the best contrived. It is 1223 Feet long, and 44 wide; a commodious Foot-way is allowed for Passengers, about 7 Feet broad on each Side, raised above the Road allowed for Carriages, and paved with broad Moor-Stones, while the Space left between them is sufficient to admit three Carriages and two Horses to go a-breſt without the least Danger. This noble Structure consists of fourteen Piers, thirteen large and two small Arches, all semicircular, and two Abutments. It is built throughout with Portland Block-Stones, none less than one Tun, or 2000 Weight, but most of them are two or three Tuns, and several four or five. All these Stones are set in and their Joints filled with a Cement called Dutch Terris, and they are besides fastened together with Iron Cramps run in with Lead. This magnificent Bridge was finished in eleven Years and nine Months: a very short Time considering the Vastness of the Undertaking, the prodigious Quantity of Stone made Use of, hewn out of the Quarry, and brought by Sea, the Interruptions of Winter, the Damage frequently done by the Ice to the Piling and Scaffolding, and the unavoidable Interruption occasioned twice a Day by the Tide.
see ‘Westminster Bridge’, in Survey of London: Volume 23, Lambeth: South Bank and Vauxhall, ed. Howard Roberts and Walter H Godfrey (London, 1951), 66-68 [right click to open in a new window]
Samuel Scott Scott , The Building of Westminster Bridge, c1742 (Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York)
A View of the late Celebrated Mr. Pope’s House at Twickenham
In 1719, the poet and satirist Alexander Pope (1688-1744) moved to Twickenham village on the Thames, about 10 miles west of central London; the house designed for him by the architect James Gibbs became known as Pope’s Villa. After Pope’s death, it was acquired by the politician Sir William Stanhope (1702-1772) and, later, by Baroness Howe of Langar (1762-1835), who had it demolished in 1808 and built a new house next to the site.
A View of the Custom House, and part of the Tower of London
A Custom House on the north bank of the Thames – located from the 14th century to 1814 at Sugar Quay in the parish of All Hallows Barking (immediately east of the present site at 20 Lower Thames Street, EC3) – was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666; its replacement, after designs of Sir Christopher Wren, was destroyed by fire in 1715. The structure seen by the Mozart’s was designed by Thomas Ripley, based in part on Wren’s plan. King, The True English Guide, 461: ‘The vast Traffick and prodigious Commerce where by this City flourishes, may be guessed at chiefly by the Duties collected in the Customhouse for all Merchandize imported or exported, which, in the Port of London only, did lately amount to 2,000800 l. Sterl. a Year:’
The Tower of London (City of London, now Tower Hill EC3), a medieval fortress and prison begun in the 1070s during the reign of William I (r. 1066-1087) and completed in the 1290s during the reign of Edward I (r. 1272-1307), later housed the Royal Mint, the Royal Armoury,and the crown jewels. A tourist attraction from at least the time of Elizabeth I (r. 1558-1603), a menagerie was established at the Tower as early as the later 1230s, following the gift to Henry III (r. 1216-1272) of three leopards or lions in 1235; it housed a polar bear in 1252 and an African elephant in 1255. A description from the time of the Mozarts’ visit in 1764 or 1765 notes that ‘The part for wild beasts, called the Lions Tower, is on the right hand after you enter the outer gate and have passed the spur-guard, and is known by the figure of a lion placed over the door. The dens are ranged in the form of a half-moon, inhabited by the greatest variety and most noble collection of wild creatures in all Europe; which are regularly fed with proper food for them, and as carefully attended as if they were indeed of royal dignity. They are shewn to all comers at 6 d. each person.’ (John Entick, A new and accurate history and survey of London, Westminster, Southwark, and places adjacent; containing whatever is most worthy of notice in their ancient and present state … with the charters, laws, customs, rights, liberties and privileges of this great metropolis (London, 1766), iv.347)
In his letter of 3 August 1764, Leopold Mozart wrote that Wolfgang was terrified by the roaring of the Tower menagerie lions; King, The True English Guide for Germans, 411-412, names the lions as Helen and Pompey and describes the animals the Mozarts saw:
Two Egyptian Nightwalkers, and two Apes from Turkey. Three beautiful Tygers, and a fine Leopard. A Gold-Eagle, which has been kept here upwards of 90 Years; and several other Eagles, brought from different parts. A Horned Owl, which is indeed a rare and wonderful Bird. The Lion Pompey, and the young Lioness Helen, about seven Years old. Two Bears. A young Man-Tyger, a curious Animal, of astonishing Strength, and very mischievous if affronted. When he came over, he killed a poor Boy on Board the Ship that brought him, by throwing a Canon Shot of nine Pounds Weight at him, upon some Disgust. He is fed in the nicest Manner, with as good Bread as the Keeper eats at his Table; and if his Feeder brings him bad Bread, he never fails to shew his Resentment. He has a Stool to sit upon, is as big as a Boy of ten or eleven Years old, and has many Actions nearly approaching to those of the human Species. Another Man-Tyger, but neither so large nor so dextrous. A Guiney Racoon, much more beautiful than those that come from America. A Jackall. A fine Tyger-Cat, which is a beautiful Creature, larger than the largest Bear-Cat, delightful coloured, and fierce beyond Description. An Ostrich, which was sent as a Present to his Majesty from the Dey of Tunis. All these Creatures are regularly fed with Food proper for them, and as carefully attended, as if they were of royal Dignity.
Egyptian night-walkers generally refers to monkeys of unknown species, sometimes said to be baboons from Egypt, the Guinea Coast or the island of Borneo.
see Impey and Parnell, The Tower of London; Grigson, Menagerie: the History of Exotic Animals in England
A View of Lord Burlington’s House
In 1729, Richard Boyle, third earl of Burlington (1694-1753), designed and had built a villa in neo-Palladian style in Chiswick, about 5 miles west of central London. The grounds, including a garden by the landscape designer William Kent, occupied approximately 65 acres. During the Mozarts’ time in London, Chiswick House was owned, first, by William Cavendish, fourth duke of Devonshire (1720-1764) and, subsequently, by his William Cavendish, fifth duke of Devonshire (1748-1811). From 1749, the artist William Hogarth (1697-1764) also owned a villa in Chiswick.
see Edward Walford, ‘Chiswick’, in Old and New London: Volume 6 (London, 1878), pp. 549-567 [right click to open in a new window]
A View of St. Mary-le-Bone, from the Bason
The pleasure garden at Marylebone(Westminster, no longer extant) opened in 1650; a renovation and enlargement in 1738-1739 included the construction of assembly rooms for balls and concerts. The gardens were leased from 1769 by the composer Samuel Arnold (1740-1802); from 1773, the orchestra was conducted by Thomas Arne (1710-1788). Marylebone Gardens closed in 1778.
A View of Sion House, over against Richmond in SURRY
Built on the site of a medieval monastery, Syon House (Surrey, was acquired by Henry Percy, ninth earl of Northumberland (1564-1632) in 1594; the property has belonged to the Percy family since. During Mozart’s time in London, Hugh Percy, first duke of Northumberland (c1714-1786), redesigned the house and estate.
see ‘Heston and Isleworth: Syon House’, in A History of the County of Middlesex: Volume 3, Shepperton, Staines, Stanwell, Sunbury, Teddington, Heston and Isleworth, Twickenham, Cowley, Cranford, West Drayton, Greenford, Hanwell, Harefield and Harlington, ed. Susan Reynolds (London, 1962), pp. 97-100 [right click to open in a new window]
A View of Richmond Hill from the Earl of Cholmondelly’s
The village of Richmond (Surrey, now Borough of Richmond-Upon-Thames) lies southwest of London, straddling the Thames River. The peer and politician George James Cholmondeley (1749-1827) was also known as Viscount Malpas. An account of Richmond from 1792 notes that ‘The Duke of Queensberry’s was built by George, the third Earl Cholmondeley, who obtained a lease of part of the old palace in the year 1708; the noble gallery in this house was ornamented by his fine collection of pictures.’
see Daniel Lysons, ‘Richmond’, in The Environs of London: Volume 1, County of Surrey (London, 1792), pp. 436-469 [right click to open ina new window]
Lambeth / The Archbishop of Canterbury’s Palace
The site of Lambeth Palace (Southwark, now SE1 7JU), the official London residence of the archbishop of Canterbury, was acquired c1200 by the diocese of Canterbury; the oldest surviving portions of the palace date from the 1430s. The main hall was destroyed during the English Civil War and rebuilt in 1663 by the then-archbishop William Juxon (1582-1663, archbishop from 20 September 1660). During Mozart’s time in London, the archbishop was Thomas Secker (1683-1768, archbishop from 21 April 1758).
see ‘Lambeth Palace’, in Survey of London: Volume 23, Lambeth: South Bank and Vauxhall, ed. Howard Roberts and Walter H Godfrey (London, 1951), pp. 81-103 [right click to open in a new window]
A View of the Bridge at Walton upon Thames in SURRY, Twenty Miles from LONDON
The first Walton Bridge, spanning the river at Walton-upon-Thames (Surrey), about twenty-five miles southwest of central London, was opened in 1750. It was replaced by the second Walton Bridge in 1778 and by subsequent bridges in 1863-1864, 1953 and 1999. A sixth Walton Bridge opened in 2013.
A View of Fulham Bridge from Putney
Fulham Bridge (no longer extant, replaced by Putney Bridge, 1886), in west London, spans the Thames River between Fulham on the north bank and Putney on the south bank. Opened in November 1729, Fulham Bridge was the first London bridge constructed across the river since the ‘old’ London Bridge in 1209. Prior to Fulham Bridge’s construction, the Thames was crossed at this point by ferry.
see Edward Walford, ‘Fulham: Introduction’, in Old and New London: Volume 6 (London, 1878), pp. 504-521 [right click to open in a new window]
The South East Prospect of WESTMINSTER
Originally the site of a Benedictine Abbey (St Peter’s) founded during the 960s or 970s, the parish of Westminster was from c1200-1530 also the site of the Palace of Westminster (now the Houses of Parliament, built after the destruction by fire of the original palace in 1834), the principal English royal residence. Westminster was considered one of the three ‘cities’ of London: Westminster, the City of London proper, and Southwark.
A View of the Foundling Hospital
The Foundling Hospital (Westminster, now Guilford Street, WC1) for abandoned children was founded in 1739; the first children were admitted in 1741. Originally based in Hatton Garden, the Foundling Hospital moved to its present-day location in 1745. As a philanthropic institution, the Foundling Hospital was supported by the nobility and prominent London artists: William Hogarth (1697-1764) was a founding governor and Georg Friedrich Handel gave a benefit concert there in 1749, for which he composed the Foundling Hospital Anthem; from 1750, Handel gave annual performances of Messiah at the Foundling Hospital.
see ‘The Foundling Hospital and Doughty Estates’, in Survey of London: Volume 24, the Parish of St Pancras Part 4: King’s Cross Neighbourhood, ed. Walter H Godfrey and W McB. Marcham (London, 1952), pp. 25-55 [right click to open in a new window]
A View of the Royal Hospital at Chelsea, & the Rotunda in Ranelagh Gardens
Established by Charles II 1681 as ‘an hospital for the relief of such land soldiers as are, or shall be, old, lame, or infirm in ye service of the crowne’, the Royal Hospital Chelsea (Chelsea, SW3) opened in 1691. The Ranelagh Pleasure Garden (no longer extant) was built on the site of the former property of Richard Jones, first earl of Ranelagh (1641-1712), purchased in 1741 by a syndicate including the proprietors of the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane; the gardens opened in 1742. The Rotunda had a diameter of 120 feet with a central support housing a fireplace. Considered more fashionable than its chief rival, Vauxhall Gardens, musical performances in the Ranelagh Rotunda are described in the contemporaneous A Description of Ranelagh Rotundo, and Gardens. Being A proper companion for those who visit that place, as it explains every Beauty and Curiosity therein to be found (London, 1762), 15-16: ‘It has been already observed that the orchestra fills up the place of one of the entrances: the band of music is numerous, and consists of a select number of the best performers, vocal and instrumental, accompanied with an organ. The concert begins about seven o’clock, and after singing several songs and playing several pieces of music, at proper intervals, the entertainment closes about ten o’clock.’ Mozart performed at a benefit concert at Ranelagh Gardens on 26 June 1764.
see Survey of London: Volume 11, Chelsea, Part IV: the Royal Hospital, ed. Walter H Godfrey (London, 1927) [right click to open in a new window]
Canaletto, Interior View of the Rotunda, Ranelagh Gardens, 1754
The South West Prospect of London. From Somerset Gardens to the Tower
Originally intended as the residence of Edward Seymour (1539-1621), first earl of Hertford, Somerset House and gardens, first planned in 1549, passed to the Crown in 1552; construction on the site was completed c1600. The palace was refurbished by Sir Christopher Wren (1632-1723) in 1685 and during the eighteenth-century was sometimes used as a residence for visiting dignitaries; the terraced riverfront garden was open to the public.
see Walter Thornbury, ‘Somerset House and King’s College’, in Old and New London: Volume 3 (London, 1878), pp. 89-95 [right click to open in a new window]
FOOTNOTES
1 The date 1763 refers only to the start of the Mozart’s travels through Germany, France, the Netherlands, England and Switzerland; all told, the Mozarts’ western European tour lasted from 9 June 1763 to 29 November 1766. Mozart and his father traveled to Italy three times between 13 December 1769 and 13 March 1773. Further, see Rudoph Angermüller and Gabriele Ramsauer, ‘”du wirst, wenn uns Gott gesund zurückkommen läst, schöne Sachen sehen.” Veduten aus dem Nachlaß Leopold Mozarts in der Graphiksammlung des Salzburger Museums Carolino Augusteum’, Mitteilungen der Internationalen Stiftung Mozarteum 42/1-2 (1994), 1-48, where images of these engravings were first reproduced.
2 Rudolph Angermüller, ‘Testament, Kodizill, Nachtrag und Sperrelation der Freifrau Maria Anna von Berchtold zu Sonnenburg, geb. Mozart (1751-1829)’, Mozart-Jahrbuch 1986, 121.
